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UPDATES:
By Don Barr
There have been some changes around Marina Hemingway. As usual the sea buoy at the entrance could be missing. After you enter you must turn to port around the first corner to tie up for customs. On the approach to the turn the sea wall has now fallen in and no longer usable. The condominiums beside canals two and three are presently being refurbished and no longer being used as medical accommodations, the swimming pools are again usable. The duty free shop in the marina has expanded a little with more items.
The “dollar “store has now taken over the whole building in the little mall and is very well stocked.
When traveling west Bahia Honda is the best first stop. Yachts are still not allowed up into the head of the bay but can go around to anchor in Santa Teresa. Punta Mangle has shoaled a little farther to the south but is quite visible with an exposed wreck about halfway along.
If your next stop is Cayo Levisa there are some changes to watch for. The route coming in the east side off Punta Levisa as shown in the Nigel Calder guide has shoaled in and shouldn’t be used if drawing over five feet. By entering more to the east as shown on the electronic charts eight feet can be carried the whole way. If using the electronic charts on Nobeltec, etc, made by NDI, the large shoal just off the dock is missing. However if entering with good light it shows up visually when you approach.
If there is no norther in the forecast a good stop is Le Esperanza. The shoal as shown in the guide book has shoaled more. There are now many sandbars on the straight route in. Because of this you should pass farther east, as seen on the electronic charts, to avoid them altogether. This course will carry eight feet to the anchorage. A bit of good news is a hurricane has scoured the eastern entrance to Ensenada Las Playuelas and with careful reading of the water seven feet can be carried inside. This would be the ideal spot in a norther.
A pleasant stop is now available in Santa Lucia. The sulfur plant has closed down and the area has been cleaned up a little. The Guarda are fewer, younger and friendlier. They now have depth marks on the wharf and eight foot draft can also tie on the west side.
In prevailing easterlies Los Arroyos is a good stop. It is not possible to tie at the wharf. You must land the dinghy on the muddy beach on the east side of the main wharf. Its possible to climb over local boats to the shore.
There is a new hotel and marina in Ensenada El Cajon just west of Cayos De La Lena. Unfortunately the dock is very exposed so if a norther is forecast it is better to anchor at Cayos De Le Lena.
These are some of the changes between Havana and Cape San Antonio. Keep in mind that it is not possible to enter Havana Harbor, you must enter at Marina Hemingway.
Donald G. Barr of Indian Point, Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia, has made a career around boats and the sea. After receiving his Master’s Certificate from the Nova Scotia Nautical Institute, Barr served on ships, tugboats and yachts, including 20 years of experience as captain of the Canadian tall ship Bluenose 11. He built his own 62-foot Herreshoff schooner Road to the Isles, with which he has made 10 transits from Nova Scotia to Cuba. He is also a principal in Yacht Pilot Marine Service and has provided consulting building services in Cuba for four projects.
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